澳洲葡萄酒白话版之 Chardonnay

patrickzhu

我最近看了一本书，叫做The Australian Wine Guide是Clive Hartley写的。
是我到现在为止英文的关于澳洲葡萄酒读物里最通俗易懂的，值得向大家大力推荐，现在的版本是2008年的4th Edition。



澳洲的葡萄酒，作为新世界葡萄酒的代表，我的评价很俗，就是“又便宜又好”。
但是记得我刚来澳洲的时候，到Bottle Shop简直看花了眼，不知道如何挑选购买。我相信很多人也很我一样，感觉无法入门。当然如果你和我一样好酒，入门起来也不难，因为多喝就会知道好坏，自己就会总结自己的经验。但是如果有Clive Hartley这样的专家写的普及书的指导，相信了解起来就会更快。

我一直想写帖子向大家介绍澳洲的葡萄酒，不是要从复杂的道道开始，而是从实用购买品尝为主。本人水平有限，一直不知道如何下笔，现在有了这本The Australian Wine Guide的指导，我可以尝试着发贴想大家来介绍如何购买品尝澳洲的葡萄酒，希望能够得到大家的支持和加分。

文章的结构我也没想好，先从澳洲葡萄酒的风格和葡萄的品种说起吧。我想把在澳洲Bottle Shop里流行的一些品种介绍下，一种葡萄一个主题贴，以后想到什么再另外开贴。

认识一种葡萄酒最简单的办法就是通过认识其葡萄的品种，比如Chardonnay就是一种做白酒的葡萄品种，Shiraz是一种做红酒或者起泡酒的葡萄品种。

其实市场上我们买的葡萄酒在Bottle Shop的货架上总是会被分成三大类：

- 无气泡葡萄酒 Still Wine
- 气泡葡萄酒 Sparkling Wine
- 烈性葡萄酒 Fortified Wine

然后在每类下面会再分子类，比如，Fortified Wine下面会有Sherry或者Port等等。。。

当然最不动脑筋的就是根据酒的颜色来分，比如纯色（White），桃红色（Rosé）和红色（Red）。

分类葡萄酒还有一类是最传统的方法，就是按照气候和地区来分。
比如，cool climate Chardonnay，或者是 South Australian Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon。
这里的cool climate就是指相对寒冷地区，Coonawarra南澳的地名，Chardonnay和Cabernet Sauvignon是指葡萄的品种。

在欧洲，最通常的方式就是根据地区（Region）来辨别和购买葡萄酒。比如，在伦敦或者巴黎的餐厅里，人们总是会说来一瓶Sancerre（Sancerre在法国中部Loire Valley地区)，而不是说要一瓶French Sauvignon Blanc（Sauvignon Blanc是一种用来做白葡萄酒的葡萄品种）。但是其实客人要的就是一瓶Sauvignon Blanc，只不过是来自于法国Sancerre产区的Sauvignon Blanc。人们会这样说是因为sancerre就是以Sauvignon Blanc而出名，所以地区的名字已经比葡萄品种更为人们所接受。

但是我们在澳洲，不用来欧洲的这一套，大家就记得如果也想有类似情形的话，就先说葡萄品种再考虑地区。
澳洲的葡萄酒里从来就是什么葡萄第一，什么地方来的第二。对于我们移民来说，这样很好，因为通常地区总是很难记的。

[ 本帖最后由 patrickzhu 于 2009-10-22 17:01 编辑 ]

魔头

这么好的帖子， 留着研究

patrickzhu

在the Australian Wine Guide里，有3000多种葡萄酒被评价过，但是只有少数的品种被分为三个等级：

杰出（Outstanding）
Often an internationally recognized, leading brand or winery; producing a classic wine that is a faultless presentation of the style/variety. Complexity on the nose and a seamless palate are some of the hallmarks of outstanding wines.

特别推荐（Highly Recommended）
A quality focused wine that has plenty of style. Length of palate and intensity are often key characters of highly recommended wines. These producers could be the ones to watch for in the future.

推荐（Recommended）
An above average, well-made, reflection of the wine style/variety, which often represents good value for money.

在这些一系列的帖子里，如果我是用黑体和红字的字体来推荐一种葡萄酒的话，就是想告诉大家如何你生产这个级别的酒的酒厂在这个酒的品种上的历年的水平一贯很高，即使你搞不清楚年份的话，购买也是值得信赖的。

当然这些东东都是非常主观的，无论作者是酒坛名人James Halliday还是什么都不是的Patrick Zhu，没人可以完整客观地把什么是好什么是不好说清楚，所以最终的王道是你自己去买来尝尝，自己觉得好才是真的好，别人的意见都只能参考。当然有时候你还需要荷包里弹药充足，比如如果你想尝尝Penfolds Grange Bin 95。

patrickzhu

开篇第一种，我们先说白葡萄酒里的Chardonnay。



Chardonnay读做Shah-don-nay，又被称为Pinot Chardonnay。其基本的香味可以是桃，蜜瓜，腰果，火石，矿物，点燃的火柴，生蚝壳等等的味道。呵呵，挺玄乎的啊，不知道点燃的火柴尝起来是啥味道？

澳洲市场上的Chardonnay要么是用橡木桶发酵的要么就没有使用橡木，未使用橡木的（unoaked）酒口味清淡而轻质，而橡木发酵的（oaked）酒通常就比较成熟而质感，而且多半会充满热带水果香味类似于黄油的味道（butteriness）。

澳洲冷一些的地方出的Chardonnay会有更多的酸度，而澳洲温暖一些地方出的酒就会圆润一些。
但是法国出产的Chardonnay和澳洲的截然不同，法国货一般都很干，充满了坚果和矿物类的味道。

Chardonnay和鸡肉甚至牛肉和猪肉配。或者成熟的Chardonnay和意式烩饭(Risotto)配也很不错。
年轻的Chardonnay最好就是配任何贝壳类的海鲜（比如生蚝或者青口）。

澳洲出产的Chardonnay大家记住，没啥收藏价值。
总体来说一定要在酒体年轻的阶段就喝掉，就是在标签年份的1-4年之内喝掉。

Chardonnay在世界范围的白葡萄酒世界里大概是最流行最令人喜爱的品种了，在澳洲也是一样， Chardonnay一年在澳洲的销售额有2.7亿刀，占整个澳洲白葡萄酒总销售额的四分之一。
但是葡萄酒市场也和流行时装一样，时尚的东西让葡萄酒也是风水轮流转的，比如我们公司里的财务是位老先生，他说二三十年前在澳洲他们喝白葡萄酒都是Semillon，但是后来就变成了Chardonnay，但是现在好像Sauvignon Blanc更为流行，在Darling Harbour，点Chardonnay变得“土”了起来，呵呵。

[ 本帖最后由 patrickzhu 于 2009-10-19 22:38 编辑 ]

武则天

sf

bluesknight

听说白葡萄酒NZ的更好些

edith921

搭车向朱爸爸请教，一种叫vintage gem的酒是什么 很甜 很浓 颜色深紫红 酒精度比普通的红酒高一倍

patrickzhu

原帖由 bluesknight 于 2009-10-18 09:09 发表
听说白葡萄酒NZ的更好些

葡萄酒市场除了本身酒的因素之外，市场营销和厂商引领流行趋势的本领非常要紧。
前几天的新闻报道里说，现在新西兰的Sauvignon Blanc已经成为澳洲白葡萄酒的里的销量冠军，澳洲本地的Chardonnay已经远远没有前些年那样流行了。
个人感觉Sauvignon Blanc没有Chardonnay那样酸，口味清淡也不至于像Semillon那样寡淡。
新西兰生产Sauvignon Blanc酒厂联合起来正在全世界范围里推广着Sauvignon Blanc，所以估计新西兰的白酒这些年会流行全世界。

patrickzhu

先从贵的开始，哈哈

======================================================

Bindi Quartz   (Macedon Ranges)

Coldstream Hills Reserve   (Yarra Valley)

Curly Flat   (Macedon Ranges)

Freycinet   (Tasmania)

Giaconda  (Beechworth)

Leeuwin Estate Art Series   (Margaret River)

Penfolds Reserve Bin A   (Adelaide Hills)

Picardy   (Pemberton)

Pierro   (Margaret River)

Yeringberg   (Yarra Valley)

====================================================

[ 本帖最后由 patrickzhu 于 2009-10-19 10:15 编辑 ]

patrickzhu

Bindi Quartz Chardonnay 2005



是来自于Victoria的Macedon Ranges，2005年份的大概要价115刀（现在市场上很难买到了），2008年份的大概是85刀。
酒厂对这个酒的建议的饮用时间可以从现在到2017年。

关于这个Bindi这个酒厂，我们来看看两位名人的评价

One of the icons of Macedon. The Chardonnay is top-shelf, the Pinot Noir as remarkable (albeit in a very different idiom) as Bass Phillip, Giaconda or any of the other tiny-production, icon wines. The addition of Heathcote-sourced Shiraz under the Pyrette label confirms Bindi as one of the greatest small producers in Australia. Notwithstanding the tiny production, the wines are exported (in small quantities, of course) to the UK, the US and other major markets.
- James Halliday

Bindi is one of the best and most important vineyards in Victoria. Found just south of the town of Gisborne, it is planted to pinot noir and chardonnay on a variety of sites, soils and aspects. With increasing vine age now providing more underlying richness and complexity, its low-cropped wines are entering a new phase of excellence. Frankly, they are probably being helped by global warming, but there is no denying that for such a cool site, it is regularly achieving in its fruit a rare combination of richness, intensity and focus.
- Jeremy Oliver

[ 本帖最后由 patrickzhu 于 2009-10-18 21:46 编辑 ]

老陶

Margaret River好像很有名，是出好酒的地方。

patrickzhu

Coldstream Hills Reserve Chardonnay

来自于Victoria的Yarra Valley，2006年份的大概要50刀。  



下面是一些酒界名人的评价（Tasting Note）

Phenomenal quality. Sophistication plus. Long, powerful, elegant, slipped with oatmeal, fig and lemon-like flavour and then long, slatey and glycerol through the finish. Toasty oomph through the mid palate. Explosive aroma. Great length. I rarely buy chardonnay to cellar, but I have to tuck a couple of bottles of this away. This is as good as any Australian chardonnay from any region. Drink: 2008-2013.
- 96 points. Campbell Mattinson; The Wine Front

Displays regional cool-climate characters of citrus and stone fruit, underpinned by barrel ferment characters of grilled nuts and toasty oak; minerally notes are evident and provide additional complexity. Screwcap.
- Rating NR Drink 2018 Date Tasted Jul 08. James Halliday

Mellifluous is the word that springs to mind when tasting this wine (although I’m not a synaesthete) - it’s silken smooth and laden with spice, dripping white peach and nectarine with a honey nougat richness. There’s a little rough edged flintiness and fine citric acidity but nothing ruffles the composure of this little beauty. It’s fine, long through the mouth and stamped with class from start to finish.
- Rated : 95 Points Tasted : Nov08 Alcohol : 14% Closure : Screwcap Drink : 2008 - 2011 Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

关于这个Coldstream Hills这个酒厂，看看评价。

"Founded by wine scribe James Halliday, who remains a consultant to this label, Coldstream Hills became part of the Southcorp empire that is today owned by Foster’s. With the possible exception of some rather herbaceous Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons, Coldstream Hills has maintained an honesty and integrity with its reserve wines, which are simply not released from inadequate seasons. As shown by some delightful 2005 releases, the ‘standard’ labels, the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir especially, can reveal delightful varietal qualities and winemaking polish."
- Jeremy Oliver

patrickzhu

Curly Flat Chardonnay


是来自于Victoria的Macedon Ranges，2004年份的大概要价40刀，2006年份的大概是44刀。
酒厂对这个酒的建议的饮用时间可以从现在到2012年。





下面是一些酒界名人的评价（Tasting Note）


"Rich, meaty, roasted-nut complexity to sniff, then a truly fabulous palate of great power and intensity, length and harmony. Some restraint and a tight structure bodes well for ageing. A beautiful wine.”
Huon Hooke, Gourmet Traveller Wine

Pale/light straw with sparkling clarity. Strong varietal bouquet, rich yet restrained showing white peach, nectarine and lime/grapefruit – signs of cool climate balanced ripeness. There are further complex tones of orange peel/blossom, toast, honey, cashew and lees. It has good palate weight and soft, creamy texture – showing restrained fruit generosity up front that builds across the mid palate where the acidity melds in and builds to a long lingering finish, with recurring waves. Hints of spice and earth, together with top quality oak reside quietly in the background, supporting the intensity and persistence of a wine that will age for 8 plus years.
Notes by Curly Flat

关于这个Curly Flat这个酒厂


The inspiration for Curly Flat Vineyard was Phillip Moraghan's experiences whilst studying in Switzerland in the 1980’s. During this period he was captivated by the many wine regions of France and Switzerland and completely enthralled by Burgundy and its Pinot Noir.


Fortunately for Phillip, his partner and future wife, Jeni shared the vision that has brought together the dedicated team to nuture Curly Flat from a romantic ideal to awe-inspiring reality. Pursuit of the dream and a cool climate suited to Pinot Noir, brought Phillip and Jeni to Lancefield in the Macedon Ranges near Melbourne.
The high altitude region is ideally suited to wine growing, with well drained volcanic soils and moderate rainfall. Curly Flat is located on a slope that catches the very last rays of sunshine in the magical moments before dusk. This prolonged exposure to the Autumn sun provides a vital ingredient for the very special fruit that is produced at Curly Flat.


To build expertise Jeni and Phillip volunteered their labour in other vineyards and wineries - but it was Macedon Ranges pioneer, Laurie Williams (Flynn & Williams label), who nurtured their understanding and passion for growing wine. Phillip began studying viticulture and travelling overseas to gain experience in wine growing and wine making - he has done several vintages in the USA, including Ponzi Vineyards in Willamette Valley Oregon and Russell Hearn's Premium Wine Group on Long Island NY.


The first vines were planted at Curly Flat in 1991 and with progressive plantings the vineyard is now 14 hectares (33 acres) – principally Pinot Noir with some Chardonnay and a little Pinot Gris. A new winery was constructed in time for the April 2002 vintage. The original homestead, built in 1890's, has been extensively renovated to host wine tastings and other wine related events.


Prior to the 2002 vintage the wines were made at a neighbouring winery under contract - with equipment and labour input from the Curly Flat Team. In 2002 Phillip took over the winemaking role, under the guidance of one of Australia's leading winemakers who is a renowned Pinot Noir specialist.


The first vintage wines, 1998 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were released in Australia in late 2001. Curly Flat wines became available in the United Kingdom in 2004. Curly Flat Vineyard is concentrating on producing wines of the highest quality that have already received critical acclaim in Australia, Europe and the United States. Indications from subsequent vintages engender great confidence in the ability of Curly Flat to consistently provide wine of the highest quality.

[ 本帖最后由 patrickzhu 于 2009-10-18 22:37 编辑 ]

patrickzhu

Freycinet Chardonnay

是来自于Tasmania的Bicheno，2005年份的大概要价38刀，2004年份的稍便宜些，但是现在很难买到了。



Jeremy Oliver给了93分评价!
"Tightly crafted, this pristine and piercingly flavoured chardonnay has an intense bouquet of pineapple, grapefruit, lemon blossom and melon aromas over creamy, leesy undertones of spicy clove and vanilla oak. Its long and crystalline expression of concentrated citrus and melon fruit overlies a fine chalkiness before finishing with clean, austere and lemony acids. Drink 2010-2013+."
- Jeremy Oliver, OnWine.

关于Freycinet酒厂

Geoff and Susan Bull planted this vineyard, just south of Bicheno, in 1980, in an east running valley and on land that is mostly sloping northerly and easterly. Winemaker: Claudio Radenti Wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Chardonnay, Muller Thurgau Freycinet

redappleau

扫盲贴,学习了,分回来了来补.:)

风花雪月

老朱介绍的这几款作为日常饮用有点贵了， 至少我以为。 推荐两款价廉物美的， 1. Xanadu 的 Margaret River Unoaked Chandonnay.  $15 左右。 2 PierreNaigeon 的 yarravalley 的 Chandonnay.  也是$15 左右。
第一款， 很清新爽口。 第二款， 很淡很淡的oak 香味， 很经典又不失新鲜感。

ECLF408

学习哦

myangel

哇，谢谢楼主，写得正是我想知道的，继续:)

patrickzhu

原帖由 风花雪月 于 2009-10-19 07:39 发表
老朱介绍的这几款作为日常饮用有点贵了， 至少我以为。 推荐两款价廉物美的， 1. Xanadu 的 Margaret River Unoaked Chandonnay.  $15 左右。 2 PierreNaigeon 的 yarravalley 的 Chandonnay.  也是$15 左右。
第一 ...

谢谢风花雪月，我还没写完，后面有很多便宜货的:)
风花雪月有啥好推荐的，欢迎随时随地来跟贴，谢谢。

patrickzhu

Giaconda Chardonnay

来自于Victoria的Beechworth。非常贵，2008年份要价150刀，2007年要110刀，2006年要195刀，2005年的150刀（评价很高的一个），2004年的199刀（也是评价很高的一种）。。。很是令人惊讶的是市场上还买得到2000年之前的存货，比如1997年份的要165刀。



因为市场对于此品种的评价非常高，所以价格居高不下，我是没有尝过，不过看看那些评价挺诱惑人的，比如对于2006年份的评价：
"There are certainly Australian Chardonnays with a cult following. A prime example is Giaconda from the high Ovens Valley in Victoria, made in tiny quantities and difficult to run to earth. This is the sort of wine Americans call funky, i.e. far from the production-line technical perfection that is the Australian norm. It needs time to show it's fascinating best".
Jancis Robinson, Financial Times, Weekend UK

"Handsome, savoury and seamlessly structured, with a smoky fragrance of melon, peach and grapefruit, with undertones of sherbet, minerals, matchstick and wheatmeal. There’s also a floral, lanolin-like waxiness that adds to its complexity. Medium to full in weight, with sumptuous, concentrated fruit, it marries a richness and fattiness of texture with an elegance and fineness. It finishes long and persistent, with bright crystalline acids and lingering notes of hazelnuts, smoked hams and nougat."
97 points, drink 2014-2018, Jeremy Oliver

名人们似乎对于整个Giaconda Chardonnay系列的产品都很追捧，所以如果大家真的要买的话，什么年份好像已经不太重要了，你能够买到就算不错了。:)

Giaconda has released these at a reduce price compared to the other recent vintages. The low volumes means there is not much around of these lying around, grab yours before they are gone!

"My favourite Australian Chardonnay. The 1998 is a great wine that may ultimately rival the 1993 and 1996 Giaconda for it's sheer opulence, weight, richness and complexity. At the moment it's a little oaky, but this will integrate with time. With it's savoury Burgundian overtones (and I don't use this description lightly) excellent balance and structure, this wine will give immense pleasure for the next five to ten years".
Philip Rich  The Australian Financial Review Magazine

"There are certainly Australian Chardonnays with a cult following. A prime example is Giaconda from the high Ovens Valley in Victoria, made in tiny quantities and difficult to run to earth. This is the sort of wine Americans call funky, i.e. far from the production-line technical perfection that is the Australian norm. It needs time to show it's fascinating best".
Jancis Robinson Financial Times Weekend UK

A genuine surprise, provided you've never tried the minuscule amounts of chardonnay from Rick Kinzbrunner's vineyard near Beechworth, north-east Victoria. This wine is classically proportioned, complex and enduring, made with the same disregard to modern and allegedly enlightened winemaking techniques as the very best from Burgundy.
Jeremy Oliver

关于Giaconda这个酒厂，看看James Halliday的介绍

These wines have a super-cult status and, given the tiny production, are extremely difficult to find; they are sold chiefly through restaurants and by mail order. All have a cosmopolitan edge befitting Rick Kinzbrunner's international winemaking experience. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are made in contrasting styles: the Chardonnay tight and reserved, the Pinot Noir more variable, but usually opulent and ripe. James Halliday

patrickzhu

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay  

来自于Western Australia的Margaret River。

这个系列的Chardonnay同样也受到名人们的一致追捧，所以年份已经不太重要了，基本上都好，不过价格也是非常的昂贵。2003年份要85刀，2004/2005/2006年的要95刀。如果你买的话，存到2018年喝也行（不过我个人觉得会用风险啊:) ）



When Penfolds began to create a white wine of the stature and image of Grange, several people asked why they didn't just buy Leeuwin Estate. Arguably Australia's leading white wine, Leeuwin's chardonnay is an explosive mouthful of concentrated, creamy Margaret River chardonnay enhanced with excellent oak. It's our best cellaring chardonnay as well.
- Jeremy Oliver

Purchased by Trish and Denis Horgan, Leeuwin Estate lies just south of the Margaret River township. The Art Series Block 20 vineyard lies on deeply weathered and laterised soils with rocky outcrops of gneiss and ironstone gravels. Pristine Chardonnay fruit characters are preserved throughout vinification. The wine is 100% barrel fermented in selected new French oak and matured in the same barrel for approximately 12 months. These are rare, long-lived, fine-boned Chardonnays with superb fruit definition and clarity. They show a balance between exuberant fruit and savoury complexity. The palate is creamy yet a fine bead of acid cuts a swathe across the palate giving life and incredible length. It develops beautifully with grapefruit/melon aromas and complex lanolin nuances.
- Andrew Caillard MW

Notwithstanding the challanges of Yattarna, giaconda, Petaluma Tiers and so forth, Leeuwin is my choice as Australia's best Chardonnay.
- James Halliday

比如对于2004年份的，James Halliday给了97分的高分，他说：
“The fruit literally sings, appropriate given Leeuwin’s annual concerts; white peach, nectarine and grapefruit are the sopranos, barrel ferment and mlf the orchestra behind, the result seamless but synergistic.”
James Halliday, Australian Wine Companion 2008

关于Leeuwin Estate这个酒厂。

"Leeuwin Estate's Chardonnay is, in my opinion, Australia's finest example, based on the wines of the last 20-odd vintages, and it is this wine alone that demands a 5-star rating for the winery. The Cabernet Sauvignon can be an excellent wine with great style and character in warmer vintages, and Shiraz made an auspicious debut. Almost inevitably, the other wines in the portfolio are not in the same Olympian class, although the Prelude Chardonnay and Siblings Sauvignon Blanc are impressive at their lower price level." James Halliday

patrickzhu

Penfolds Reserve Bin A Chardonnay

这个牌子大家都知道来自于South Australia的 Adelaide Hills，鼎鼎大名。
05A（2005年份）市场要价90刀，饮用年限从现在刀2012年。00A（2000年份）的要价70刀，要喝就趁早（2010年之前）。

                       

看看对00A的评价：

Best Wine of the 2004 Competition" - Sydney International Wine Competition 2004

"A wonderfully attractive wine laden with fresh white peach fruit and lemony notes and just a touch of spice. There is subtle use of oak and a rich, buttery attack lifted with a lively acidity and a very long honeyed finish."
Tasted: May 2004
International Wine Challenge Gold 2004

James Halliday Rating 96!
"Bin 00A. Brilliant, bright light to medium green-yellow; the bouquet has complex barrel ferment and malolactic ferment inputs on intense citrus fruit; it is that combination of malolactic and barrel ferment fruit which drives the long palate, anchored in nectarine and citrus, then a lingering finish and aftertaste. Seventy five per cent from Tumbarumba and 25 per cent from the Adelaide Hills. I lost no time in acquiring half a case of the wine, which is only an eyelash behind Yattarna."
Best Drinking: 2003 to 2010
Drink with: Smoked chicken
James Halliday Mar 04 2003

"Penfolds reserve chardonnays are rarely less than outstanding. This is complex with melon, nectarine and citrus fruit married to buttery, toffee and toasty touches. The palate has great intensity; its texture and length make it truly special." 5 Stars
Uncorked, Sydney Morning Herald - Australia, 25 May 2004

"There's quality and sophistication written into every sniff and slurp of this wine. Aroma has a slightly toasty thread with rich, ripe, peachy melon-laden fruit. The palate is tight with a lingering intensity, showing some slight savoury mineral character." 92 Points
West Australian - Australia, 15 April 2004

The Penfolds team has declared its intention to stylistically distance the Reserve Bin chardonnay from Yattarna, mainly through fruit sourcing: this is, on the whole, high-altitude Tumbarumba while Yattarna is mostly Adelaide Hills. This superb chardonnay really opens up with some air: don't serve it too cold! It starts with smoky, charred-oak and hints of green capsicum, developing peach and melon aromas with lovely complex smoke, honey, butter and citrus nuances. The palate is very intense, tightly focussed and has an incredibly long follow-through. A great chardonnay. Serve it with chicken galantine." 5 Stars
The Penguin Good Australian Wine Guide - Australia, 1 October 2003

"Penfolds search for a "white Grange: that eventually became Yattarna Chardonnay was one of the most ballyhooed, long-winded events in Australian wine marketing. Along the way, they made a number of trial wines, specially released with bin numbers ending in 'A'. The have been superb, rich wines, but this latest worthy effort goes in a different, more delicate direction. Made from Tumbarumba and Adelaide Hills fruit, it is a comparatively pale chardonnay with very elaborate chardonnay with very elaborate character. It is super-fine with nectarine and citrus fruit, chalky/minerally and cream-caramel aromas and very restrained French oak. It is silky and fine in the mouth, subtly complex, with a super-long, toasty finish. Ageing? Drink over four years. Food ideas: Crab; seafood tempura." 5 Stars
Uncorked, Age The - Australia, 25 March 2003

关于这个Penfolds酒厂

almost 150 years and indisputably lead the development of Australian fine wine in the modern era. The introduction of Penfolds Grange Hermitage in 1951 forever changed the landscape of Australian fine wine, since then a series of standout wines - both red and white - have been released under the Penfolds masthead. Penfolds

patrickzhu

Picardy Chardonnay

来自于Western Australia的Pemberton。

2005年和2006年份的大概要30-35刀，不算贵。饮用年限从现在到2012年。
还是用软木塞的（Corked），呵呵。




关于Picardy酒厂

All wines bearing the Picardy label are made entirely from fruit grown on the Picardy vineyard and are vintaged and bottled by the Pannell Family. The red wines are noted for their vibrant colours and intensity of fine-grained tannins. The Chardonnay is produced in a delicate, refined style in keeping with the great wines of Burgundy. These wines all have pronounced structure and intense flavour. They are made to be drinkable in their youth and have certainly proved the test of time.

The latest Picardy wines are superb. A 2003 Chardonnay is marvelously Burgundy-like in its hazelnutty…lees complexities and  lovely layered, taut,…finely textured palate. There are a deliciously foresty, fleshy, undergrowth 2002 Pinot Noir, a leaner, more nervy but fiercely intense '01 Tete de Cuvee Pinot Noir, an impressively concentrated, gamey, spicy, fleshy cool-climate '02 Shiraz..
Huon Hooke, Good Living December 14th, 2004.

patrickzhu

Pierro Chardonnay

来自于Western Australia的Margaret River。
2006/2007年份要75刀，2005年之前的都要80刀以上。名人们对这个酒厂的Chardonnay系列评价也很高。



比如2005年份的评价：
Jeremy Oliver 97 points
"A very stylish, powdery and mineral chardonnay whose sumptuously ripened flavours of honeydew melon, grapefruit and pineapple are tightly knit with sweet, spicy vanilla oak. It’s heady and perfumed, with an unctuous, silky-smooth but explosively flavoured palate whose intense tropical and citrusy fruit is carefully backed by creamy oak. It finishes long and chalky, with a wet slate-like backbone of fine phenolics and minerality."
Jeremy Oliver, OnWine.

James Halliday 93 points!
"Light straw-green; an elegant mix of fig, stone fruit and ripe melon, the oak judged to perfection."
James Halliday, Wine Companion Website, Tasted Dec 2006.

关于Pierro酒厂

Mike Peterkin's small production of handmade, voluptuously proportioned, statuesque chardonnay makes at least as much impact as many top reds. It's the nearest rival to Leeuwin Estate and proves once and for all that you can make a massively structured chardonnay without overdoing a thing.
Jeremy Oliver

Pierro Vineyard lies in the central Willyabrup sub region of Margaret River. The fully mature ‘Gin Gin’ clone Chardonnay vines are closely spaced which increases relative humidity. The vineyard is very stony; at night the heat radiates back into the clusters of Chardonnay effectively burning off excessive levels of malic acid. Low levels of malic acid in the Chardonnay fruit means that the complex aromas and flavours derive from malo-lactic fermentation do not smother fruit definition. The wine is vinified in Burgundian fashion with barrel fermentation in new French oak, lees stirring (battonage) and lees contact. Doctor Mike Peterkin is able to combine a fastidious attention to detail with a relaxed approach. Pierro Chardonnay possesses incredible intensity, generosity, complexity and concentration.
Andrew Caillard MW

Dr Michael Peterkin is another of the legion of Margaret River medical practitioners who, for good measure, married into the Cullen family. Pierro is renowned for its stylish white wines, which often exhibit tremendous complexity. The Chardonnay can be monumental in its weight and complexity.
James Halliday

patrickzhu

Yeringberg Chardonnay  

来自于Victoria的Yarra Valley。
2005年份的要价50刀。



Jeremy Oliver 96 points!
"Very classy indeed, this smooth and seamless chardonnay has a delicate fragrance of peach, melon and tightly knit vanilla oak with undertones of spice and wheatmeal. Long and creamy, it’s an essay in elegance and restraint, unfolding layers of grapefruit, melon and peachy flavours meshing neatly with a measured oak background and zesty acids. Terrific focus and shape, and excellent potential."
Jeremy Oliver, OnWine.

Wine Advocate 90 points!
The 2005 Chardonnay was aged in 30% new oak. Medium straw-colored, it has a bouquet of toast, vanilla, butter, and baked apple. Full-flavored, mouth-filling, and ripe, this medium to full-bodied Chardonnay is well balanced, with nicely integrated oak and acidity leading to a lengthy finish. Drink it over the next 4-6 years. Owner Guill de Pury is a third generation winegrower and the individual responsible for the rebirth of grape growing in the Yarra Valley. His first vintage was 1974.
Wine Advocate # 173 Oct 2007

关于Yeringberg酒厂

Yarra Valley pioneers, the de Pury family are renowned for wines of finesse and elegance that epitomise the finest the region can produce. Produced from some of the oldest vines in the valley, these are long lived wines made in tiny quantities. Wine Maker: Guill de Pury

patrickzhu

原帖由 edith921 于 2009-10-18 09:56 发表
搭车向朱爸爸请教，一种叫vintage gem的酒是什么 很甜 很浓 颜色深紫红 酒精度比普通的红酒高一倍

我想大概是烈性葡萄酒 Fortified Wine里的一种吧，类似于Port。
这些甜酒很多女同学都喜欢，但是葡萄甜酒的酒精度数很高，很容易醉啊:)

jtmichelle

好贴，收藏了。

小鸭

等看新帖学习

patrickzhu

Chardonnay是世界上最知名的葡萄品种，它的适应性很强，对气候的条件要求不高，从炎热干燥的南澳Riverland地区一直到寒冷潮湿的维多利亚的Macedon Ranges都能生长。这种葡萄甚至在完全成熟的时候还能够保持很高的酸度，所以它就像一块洁白的画布，任由酿酒师在其上施展自己的艺术技巧。

Chardonnay葡萄在未成熟是果味酸涩寡淡，但是藏酿成熟后，香味就会惊人地增加。澳洲温暖的地区的Chardonnay是带有桃和蜜瓜味的香气，而在相对寒冷地区的Chardonnay就会有梨，葡萄，酸橙或者柑橘味道香气。Chardonnay的另一面就是那些奇奇怪怪的味道，比如，火石，板岩，生蚝壳和干苦的矿物味。



现在为Oatley家族所拥有的Craigmoor是澳大利亚第一批认识到Chardonnay市场潜力的酒庄之一，并且在1971年的时候在Mudgee生产出第一批Chardonnay白葡萄酒。同一时期，在Hunter Valley的Tyrrell's也有商品化的Chardonnay酒。

Chardonnay葡萄需要在温暖的气候里早些采摘，因为要保持住酒里尽可能多的自然酸。大部分的白葡萄酒，不需要很成熟的发酵，因为很多酿酒师希望保持白葡萄酒口味的新鲜。但是Chardonnay是白葡萄酒世界里可以在橡木桶里发酵成熟的主要白葡萄酒品种。这其实是一种自然的调节，要等到主要的乙醇发酵阶段才开始的，术语叫做苹果乳酸菌发酵（Malolactic Fermentation)。因为Chardonnay酸度高，苹果酸的含量自然就很高。苹果酸是一种是苹果具有酸味的有机酸。自然界有一种叫做乳酸杆菌（Lactobacillus）的细菌可以将这种酸分解成乳酸（Lactic Acid），使得味觉上感到柔和一些。这些东东很复杂，其实也没必要弄的很清楚。但是大家可以记住澳洲Chardonnay最重要的特征就是“黄油味”，这种独特的味道不是由葡萄本身引起的，而是由苹果乳酸菌发酵造成的。

所谓Oaked的Chardonnay里的橡木（通常是法国橡木）可以调节平衡果味，在橡木桶里成熟的Chardonnay会有香草， 燕麦，坚果，木头，烟熏味，奶油糖果或者pencil shavings（我汗死，这个不知道是啥味道？？？）

所谓Unoaked的Chardonnay就保留着更丰富的果香味，这unoaked的目的说白了，其实就是让大家快点喝掉而已。因为澳洲地域广大，Chardonnay带的水果味道的多样性，让酿酒师们有足够的自信做出不经oak处理的原味果味浓的Chardonnay。

传统上澳洲生产Chardonnay最出色的地区大家需要记一下了：
Western Australia： Magaret River
Victoria：Yarra Valley， Mornington Peninsula，Macedon Ranges
South Australia: Adelaide Hills
Tasmania

澳洲新兴的生产Chardonnay地区为New South Wales的Tumbarumba，Orange和 the Southern Highlands地区。

上面这些地方都是澳洲相对比较寒冷的地区，比较适宜Chardonnay的种植和生产。但是在澳洲相对炎热的地区比如Hunter and McLaren Vale生产的Chardonnay是否能够也同样成功还是有相当疑问的。

[ 本帖最后由 patrickzhu 于 2009-10-19 22:39 编辑 ]

patrickzhu

下面这些是Highly Recommended的Chardonnay白葡萄酒。

如果是用红字黑体来标识的话，就代表这个酒庄生产的Chardonnay水准一贯很高，你可以不考虑年份，基本不会买错。:)

Cullens Kevin John (Margaret River, Western Australia)



De Bortoli Yarra Reserve  (Yarra Valley, Victoria)



Hardy’s Eileen Hardy (South Eastern Australia)



Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba (Tumbarumba, New South Wales)




Lillydale Estate (Yarra Valley, Victoria)



Shaw and Smith M3 (Adelaide Hills, South Australia)



Coldstream Hills Reserve (Yarra Valley, Victoria)



Kooyong Mosaic (Mornington Peninsula, Victoria)



Pirie Estate (Tasmania)



Robert Channon Reserve (Granite Belt,Queensland)



Salitage Unwooded (Pemberton, Western Australia)



Willow Creek Tulum (Mornington Peninsula, Victoria)



YarraLoch Stephanie’s Dream (Yarra Valley, Victoria)



Cassegrain Fromenteau (Tumbarumba, New England, NSW)


[ 本帖最后由 patrickzhu 于 2009-10-20 18:10 编辑 ]