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入行7，8年了， 总结一下经验在这里， 如有误差， 请指正
老是有人问什么样的沙发是好皮？
其实很简单，无论SALES说的怎么天花乱坠， 皮质就像人的皮肤，摸上去细腻光滑柔软的就是好皮， 相反， 质地粗糙， 硬邦邦的就是差皮
首先普及一下概念:
Full-Leather 全皮， Half-Leather半皮
去沙发店的时候经常有SALES说“我们的沙发是全皮沙发”
全皮是个什么概念呢？ 这是相对半皮而言的， 全皮就是沙发全部是用真牛皮做的，半皮就是沙发的座位和扶手是用真皮， 其他都是用PU（人造革）。
全皮就是好皮吗？ NO， 全皮只是说明没有坑爹， 并不说明皮的质量
下面说说具体皮的分类
Full Grain 中文也是“全皮”
这里的全皮是对应“头层皮”和“二层皮”而言的， 就是整个的皮， 没有被分层。
Wikipedia 说， 最好的家具应该是用Full Grain来做， 但是我在从业8年中， 从来没见过Full Grain的沙发， 我见过的都是下面说到的“Top Grain 头层皮”的沙发， 如果哪位同学有幸买到Full Grain 的沙发一定要告诉我。（从名词解释上看， 全皮的质量是非常好的， 一定要最上等的皮质才能做成全皮）
Full-grain leather refers to the leather which has not had the upper "top grain" and "split" layers separated. The upper section of a hide that previously contained the epidermis and hair, but were removed from the hide/skin. Full-grain refers to hides that have not been sanded, buffed, or snuffed (as opposed to top-grain or corrected leather) to remove imperfections (or natural marks) on the surface of the hide. The grain remains allowing the fiber strength and durability. The grain also has breathability, resulting in less moisture from prolonged contact. Rather than wearing out, it will develop a patina over time. High quality leather furniture and footwear are often made from full-grain leather. Full-grain leathers are typically available in two finish types: aniline and semi-aniline.
Top Grain 中文：头层皮
就是说把一张皮切了， 最上面那层皮， 现在市面上的中高档沙发主要是用这个皮
Top-grain leather is the second-highest quality. It's had the "split" layer separated away, making it thinner and more pliable than full grain. Its surface has been sanded and a finish coat added to the surface which results in a colder, plastic feel with less breathability, and will not develop a natural patina. It is typically less expensive and has greater resistance to stains than full-grain leather, so long as the finish remains unbroken.
TOP GRAIN里面又分了三个等级：
Aniline，Semi-Aniline, 和 Top leather （也可以叫Corrected-grain）
简单的说， 这三个皮分别代表了我女儿，我LD 和我
Aniline，女儿的皮肤最好， 这个皮不需要做任何修改， 在鞣制过程中完全保持了其本色， 只是染上了颜色， 这种皮透气性好，冬暖夏凉， 手感舒适， 但是缺点： 不耐用
这种皮质的沙发， 价格应该在$5000以上 (意大利皮)
Semi-Aniline， 我LD的皮肤好， 但是难免留下岁月的痕迹， 所有， 在鞣制过程中会进行一些修补，尽量保持了皮的本色， 这种皮比较这种， 既有手感又耐用. 价格比ANILINE低15%－20%
我认为所有足迹平均工资的兄弟至少要买一套这样的沙发
Top leather， 就跟我的皮肤差不多， 新中国的风风雨雨都写在我脸上， 这种皮只能大面积的修复和染色， 并且最后有一个化学涂层。 这种皮手感略硬， 上面花纹应该都是假的， 但是他结实耐用。
Aniline leather is top grain leather that is dyed for colour only without any pigments applied. The leather is coloured all the way through by applying a transparent dye, immersing the hide in a dye bath. Only the highest quality hides can be used in this process as the transparent finish allows the natural markings of the leather to show through. Such natural markings or characteristics include scars, scratches and wrinkles. Other than the colour, the appearance of this kind of leather is entirely natural. The minimal processing also allows the leather to breathe, making it a comfortable choice for both hot and cold weather.
Semi-Aniline leather is simply aniline leather that is very lightly pigmented. This additional pigment allows the natural characteristics of the hide to show through while offering the benefits of colour uniformity and increased durability. This extra process balances out dye colour inconsistencies and allows for greater colour options. Subtle distinctions between the natural grain and pigmentation of the hide surface create an aesthetic quality that is unique to semi-aniline leather.
Top leather is a premium grade of leather, using the top layer of the hide. The surface is refinished as it goes through processing to create a uniform look that removes insect bites, scars and other environmental markings. This process also gives the leather the advantage of having greater protection against stains. The surface of corrected top grain leather is smoother and more uniform, perfect for the upholstery of sofas used everyday.
还有一种就是二层皮， 这个就是完全造假，所有的花纹全是印上去的
Split leather is leather created from the fibrous part of the hide left once the top-grain of the rawhide has been separated from the hide. During the splitting operation, the top grain and drop split are separated. The drop split can be further split (thickness allowing) into a middle split and a flesh split. In very thick hides, the middle split can be separated into multiple layers until the thickness prevents further splitting. Split leather then has an artificial layer applied to the surface of the split and is embossed with a leather grain (bycast leather). Splits are also used to create suede. The strongest suedes are usually made from grain splits (that have the grain completely removed) or from the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness. Suede is "fuzzy" on both sides. Manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede from full-grain. A reversed suede is a grained leather that has been designed into the leather article with the grain facing away from the visible surface. It is not considered to be a true form of suede.
[ 本帖最后由 dickson 于 2011-9-5 22:21 编辑 ] |
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那些年，那些人，那些事 (2011-9-13) ifthereis 
发表于 2011-9-5 23:20
