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真正的法国香槟来了，很好，就是太贵了
Champagne
I have long argued that Champagnes in general offer the best value for money of any of the great wines of France (or elsewhere). The Dom Perignon Rose tops the price tree at $780, which will cause a sharp intake of breath for many would-be consumers. But what would you expect to pay for an 11-year-old First Growth Bordeaux from a great vintage, or a Grand Cru Burgundy from a great Burgundian producer? A bottle of 1990 Romanee-Conti will be more than ten times the price of the Dom Perignon. Bringing the comparisons closer to home, and you find that the prices of 2004 Grange and 2005 Hill of Grace are not far behind the Dom Rose.
The record field of 69 Champagnes tasted, with three-quarters selling for less than $200, made the selection even more difficult. I must admit I was helped by a gaggle of two-legged, wingless seagulls who mysteriously arrived from other parts of the Coldstream Hills winery (where I do all my tastings) offering their help and expertise. The most obvious development has been the increase in the number of roses across all price points.
Lanson Gold Label Vintage Brut 1998
93 points, $84.99
Numerous quick-fire changes of ownership, and the loss of its estate vineyards, had little effect on the quality of the wines. The key to the style is the absence of malolactic fermentation, the palate always incisive. Here prolonged lees contact has introduced elements of grilled nuts and brioche into the bouquet and palate, the latter fine and long, the acidity prominent, but less forceful than that of the ’96. Typically Pinot Noir (52%)Chardonnay (48%).
Contact Liquid Ideas T (02) 9667 4211
Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV
94 points, $90
Winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon spent several of years in Tasmania during the Roederer-Heemskerk joint venture days, but no-one has any doubt that it is Jean-Claude Rouzaud who drove the business to unparalleled fame and fortune. This wine is typically a blend of 62% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 8% Pinot Meunier, and is noted for its rich, creamy flavours. This particular release seems to me to also have great elegance, and, above all else, length.
Contact Red + White (Sally McGill) T (08) 8124 9024
Moet & Chandon Imperial Rose NV
Familiarity breeds contempt, so they say, and non-vintage Moet is seen just about everywhere. However, it does not deserve to be greeted with a yawn. This is a very interesting, savoury style, reflecting the equal parts of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the latter doubtless contributing to the savoury/biscuity characters, and to the overall high flavour of the wine. It also develops quickly, meaning there is absolutely no point in cellaring the wine.
Contact Moet Hennessy (Penelope Fox) T (02) 8344 9908
Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Brut NV
94 points, $90
Like Moet & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot is also owned by LVMH, but no-one would suggest this has led to any confusion between what are radically different styles. Most obviously, a few extra years of bottle-age for the Veuve allows the wine to add nuances of toast or biscuit. This bottle is halfway, so it seems, with lots of citrus and stone fruit, backed by good acidity, and just a hint of toast.
Contact Moet Hennessy (Penelope Fox) T (02) 8344 9908
Bollinger Special Cuvee NV
94 points, $99.95
Given the number of Champagnes priced between $95 and $99.99, I took it on myself to reduce the price of the Bollinger from $100 to $99.95. Mind you, it’s typical of Bollinger to ignore tawdry marketing. Long since free of the aldehydic problems which once disfigured the wine, this is very rich and complex, with pronounced biscuity/creamy textures and flavours before moving through to a fine finish. Only 25% Chardonnay.
Contact Fine Wine Partners (Fiona McDonald) T (02) 8335 8016
Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 1999
95 points, $124.95
Arguably offers the best value for money in the line-up, but Pol often finds itself so rated. Its Blanc de Blancs is the counterpoint to Billecart-Salmon’s Rose, both style leaders at their price points. This is a beautiful wine, with rich citrus and white peach flavours giving way to focus and finesse on the finish; its line and fluidity add to its very considerable appeal.
Contact Samuel Smith & Son (Tim Evans) T (08) 8112 4200 [check]
Henriot Brut Rose NV
95 points, $126.95
The story of the sale that wasn’t of the Henriot brand is too long to tell, but Joseph Henriot ended up with the best of all possible worlds, keeping the brand and still having the wines made at Veuve Clicquot (which he left in 1994). The three Henriot wines in this tasting all stood out, this wine with exceptional thrust and energy to the fine red fruits, carrying through to the very long and clean finish.
Contact Mezzanine Wine (Cassandra Eyres) T 1300 555 821 [check]
Champagne Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru Brut 2000
95 points, $175
This year Jacquesson joined Bollinger, Egly-Ouriet, Krug, Salmon and Selosse as the only three-star Champagne producers by the leading French wine magazine, La Revue du Vin de France. This particular wine was not disgorged until the start of 2008, and received a very low dosage. Sourced entirely from Grand Cru Chardonnay grown in Avize, it has glowing yellow-green colour and has quite exceptional length; a miraculous marriage of purity and complexity.
Contact Cellarhand (Patrick Walsh) 0409 836 939
Billecart-Salmon Nicolas Francois Billecart 1998
95 points, $190
Both here and in Europe, Billecart’s popularity has focused on its exceptional good non-vintage Rose, so much so that its price has crept up close to its flagship wine, which I have duly selected. It has a complex, fruit-driven bouquet, then multiple layers of fruit giving the palate both depth and complexity, before lovely freshness takes over on the finish. Pinot Noir (55%)/Chardonnay (45%).
Contact DWS T (03) 9878 7848
Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2002
97 points, $375
Cristal enjoys hyper-cult status, and is made almost every vintage, thanks to the 190 hectares of vineyards owned by Roederer. Many things are going on in the very complex and intense bouquet, reflected in the multi-citrus flavours of the palate which yield to an almost delicate and wonderfully clean finish. Pinot Noir (55%)/Chardonnay (45%), although you might guess the percentages the other way around.
Contact Red + White (Sally McGill) T (08) 8124 9024
Krug Vintage 1998
98 points, $525
The suppression of malolactic fermentation allows this almost impossibly complex wine to have such a long life, reaching its peak between 20 and 30 years of age. Straw-gold in colour, ripe fruits, dried fruits, biscuit and caramel all come through on the complex bouquet, and flow into the palate. This has explosive length and intensity, the finish long, the aftertaste amazing. It is the magic of Krug which produces such a lovely wine from an ordinary vintage.
Contact Moet Hennessy (Penelope Fox) T (02) 8344 9908
Dom Perignon Vintage Rose 1998
98 points, $780
Decades were to pass after the first vintage of Dom Perignon in 1921 before a Rose was made and released. When Krug and Dom Perignon both included a Rose version, rose’s legitimacy could no longer be questioned. The multitude of red fruits and spices give the bouquet an ethereal quality unlike any other Champagne, while the palate presents those same characters in an intense yet flowery freedom which soars above all other Roses than that of Krug.
Contact Moet Hennessy (Penelope Fox) T (02) 8344 9908
| Champagne Near misses: | Rating | Price | | NV Lanson Black Label Brut | 92 | $69.99 | | NV Ayala Brut Majeur | 93 | $80.00 | | NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve | 93 | $85.00 | | NV Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve | 94 | $91.99 | | 1998 Perrier Jouet Grand Brut Millesime Vintage | 94 | $110.00 | | 2002 Veuve Clicquot Vintage Blanc | 95 | $130.00 | | 1998 Dom Ruinart | 96 | $320.00 | | NV Krug Grande Cuvee | 97 | $350.00 | | NV Krug Rose | 97 | $679.00 |
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