澳洲葡萄酒白话版之 2009年度TOP100推荐（James Halliday版本）

patrickzhu

Sauvignon Blanc and blends

no coincidence, perhaps, that the two sauvignon blancs came from Orange and the Adelaide Hills. Even less surprising is the domination of Western Australia in the sauvignon semillon blends. Only Tulloch prevented a clean sweep, and even there, the sauvignon blanc came from Western Australia. These blends are powerful weapons to confront Marlborough with.


Printhie Orange Sauvignon Blanc 2009
94 points, $16.99 Screwcap, 12.5% alc
While a fraction in size of Marlborough, Orange has thrown down the gauntlet. This is another example of the synergy between Orange and sauvignon blanc; while there are abundant passionfruit, lychee and tropical aromas and flavours, the acidity is fresh and cleansing, giving both drive and balance.
From Orange, NSW
Drink to 2011 with vegetable tempura
www.printhiewines.com.au

Nova Vita Firebird Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2008
94 points, $19.99, Screwcap, 11.5% alc
The grapes come from a single block on the Woodlands Ridge Vineyard owned by Mark and Joanne Kozned (of Russian descent). A powerful bouquet running through herb, gooseberry and passionfruit promises much, and the palate duly delivers those flavours on a long finish; is deliciously fresh, with cleansing acidity.
From Adelaide Hills, SA
Drink to 2011 with bouillabaisse
www.novavitawines.com.au

Brown Hill Estate Lakeview Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009
93 points, $16.99, Screwcap, 13.5% alc
Owned by the Bailey family, able to pick the eyes out of 22 ha of estate vineyards dating back to 1995. Cold fermentation and bottling within 12 weeks of picking produces an arresting bouquet of passionfruit and - unusually but obviously - pear, the palate incisive and long, drawn out by citrussy acidity.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink to 2012 with poached scallops
www.brownhillestate.com.au

Tulloch Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2009
94 points, $15.99, Screwcap, 12.5% alc
The third and so far best release of this cool-fermented, early-bottled style, very lively and well made. Sauvignon blanc from Western Australia introduces some passionfruit, the drive and energy provided by the semillon, with lemony acidity on the finish, the mark of a top vintage.
From Hunter Valley/Western Australia
Drink to 2012 with blue swimmer crab
www.tulloch.com.au

West Cape Howe Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2009
93 points, $15.99, Screwcap, 12.5% alc
Hit the headlines in a David and Goliath acquisition of the ex Goundrey winery and vineyards from Constellation. The varieties work as synergistically as ever, the semillon contributing to aroma and flavour, as well as texture and structure; the sauvignon blanc adds touches of tropical and stone fruit.
From Denmark, WA
Drink to 2012 with barbequed marron
www.westcapehowewines.com.au

Wills Domain Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2009
94 points, $19.50, Screwcap, 13% alc
Notwithstanding Darren Haunold's paraplegia, he (and wife Michelle) unhesitatingly purchased the then 15-year-old vineyard in 2000, and (with Bruce Dukes as winemaker) immediately produced wonderful wines. This has a very aromatic and expressive bouquet of passionfruit, grapefruit and a touch of herb, the palate providing more of the same, with energy and drive.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink to 2011 with sugar cured tuna
www.willsdomain.com.au

patrickzhu

Chardonnay

the five wines come from the regional usual suspects basket, with the qualified exception of the Wagga Wagga component in the Charles Sturt wine. The overriding feature of these chardonnays is minimal oak and maximum cool-grown varietal expression.


Mike Press Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2009
94 points, $10.99, Screwcap, 12.5% alc
The enterprise of industry veteran (over 40 years in the business) Mike Press and wife Judy, offering estate-grown wines at irresistible prices. Elegant, vibrant and supremely fresh, it runs the gamut of grapefruit, green apple, white peach and nectarine flavours with perfectly judged acidity. No oak evident, and none needed.
From Adelaide Hills, SA
Drink to 2013 with sashimi
www.mikepresswines.com.au

Charles Sturt University Chardonnay 2009
93 points, $14.30, Screwcap, 12.5% alc
Made at a new (2002) on-campus commercial winery by a full-time winemaker with significant student assistance during vintage, and some through the year. Pale straw-green; a highly aromatic bouquet of grapefruit, white peach and white flowers leads into a finely-framed, light bodied palate, with a touch of French oak.
From Orange/Wagga Wagga, NSW
Drink to 2012 with seared tuna
www.csu.edu.au/winery

Hoddles Creek Estate Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2008
95 points, $18.99, Screwcap, 13.5% alc
The D'Anna family purchased their Upper Yarra property in 1960, established the vineyard in 1997, the split-level winery in 2003. A delicious chardonnay, exemplifying the Yarra Valley style with its length and finesse; white peach and nectarine fruit flow smoothly across the palate, oak and acidity in perfectly balanced support.
From Yarra Valley, Vic
Drink to 2014 with fettuccini with clams
www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au

De Bortoli Gulf Station Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2008
94 points, $18.99, Screwcap, 13% alc
The is the mid-range in the De Bortoli portfolio, part estate-grown, and part from the Upper Yarra Valley. The oak contribution has been deliberately suppressed in a subtle wine, with very harmonious fruit, oak and acidity; the flavours are ripe without threatening the elegance of the palate, nor obscuring its length.
From Yarra Valley, Vic
Drink to 2016 with grilled John Dory
www.debortoli.com.au

Brookland Valley Verse 1 Margaret River Chardonnay 2008
94 points, $19.99, Screwcap, 13.5% alc
Verse 1 sits third in line below the reserve and premium varietal series from Brookland Valley, yet provides great drinking, and is right in the mainstream of winery style, with delicious white peach, nectarine and grapefruit aromas and flavours supported by quality French oak; has very good line, length and balance.
From Margaret River, WA
Drink to 2015 with grilled scallops
www.brooklandvalley.com.au

patrickzhu

Other whites

little needs be said, other than Moondah Brook neatly emphasises the varietal character of verdelho, while Fox Gordon neatly puts the damper on the over-exuberance of viognier.


Moondah Brook Verdelho 2008
94 points, $17.99, Screwcap, 13.5% alc
Curiously, the use of verdelho to make table wine is unique to Australia. Here, fragrant and fine citrus notes on top of fruit salad; elegance and great length to a wine of exceptional varietal expression. Totally delicious and fresh. Gold WA Wine Show '08 and Sydney International Wine Competition '08.
From Swan Valley, WA
Drink to 2013 with fresh seafood
www.moondahbrook.com.au

Fox Gordon Abby Adelaide Hills Viognier 2009
94 points, $19.95, Screwcap, 13.5% alc
I am not a lover of viognier, but the three-women Fox Gordon team has got the best out of this notoriously difficult variety, with fresh ginger in amongst the mix of pear, apricot and orange zest; the flavour is achieved without phenolic toughness, the acidity providing a pathway to food matching.
51 words
From Adelaide Hills, SA
Drink to 2010 with oven baked turkey
www.foxgordon.com.au

patrickzhu

Under $20 Whites Near misses:	Rating	Price
2008 Deakin Estate Chardonnay	88	$10
2009 Zilzie Selection 23 Chardonnay	88	$10
2009 McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Sauvignon Blanc	90	$12.99
2008 Serafino Reserve McLaren Vale Chardonnay	91	$15
2009 Watershed Shades Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon	92	$16.95
2008 Watershed Margaret River Unwooded Chardonnay	93	$16.95
2004 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Cellar Release Semillon	92	$17.99
2009 Bremerton Langhorne Creek Sauvignon Blanc	92	$18
2008 Cooralook Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay	93	$18
2008 Peter Lehmann Eden Valley Riesling	96	$18
2008 Granite Hills Knight Macedon Ranges Riesling	95	$20
2007 Kennedy & Wilson Quarry Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay	94	$20

patrickzhu

Riesling
An impossibly congested – and contested — field, the five wines spread across Western Australia, South Australia and Victoria, the two from Western Australia both from Porongorup. Often (incorrectly) called The Porongurups, it is one of the five subregions of the Great Southern, producing wines of great finesse which grow in bottle over many years. Talking of which, it is arguable the Pewsey Vale Contours is the best value special of this group, for at least part of the cellaring has been done for you.

Castle Rock Estate Riesling 2008
96 points, $21, Screwcap, 12.5% alc
Family member and winemaker Rob Diletti has gained skill and experience as the estate vineyard has aged; it’s a potent combination. Still gloriously youthful, citrus and mineral interwoven, edging slowly but surely to the day five years out when it will start to display everything it has to offer; it will be magnificent.
From Porongurup
Drink to 2023 with tuna sashimi
www.castlerockestate.com.au

Delatite Riesling 2008
96 points, $23, Screwcap, 13% alc
It was a toss-up between this wine and the late harvest Sylvia Riesling, both wines reflecting the very cool, high altitude vineyard. Light bright straw-green; lime and lemon blossom aromas lead into a brilliantly fresh palate, where green apple joins the lime of the bouquet; perfectly balanced acidity draws out the long finish.
From Upper Goulburn
Drink to 2020 with blue swimmer crab
www.delatitewinery.com.au
Pewsey Vale The Contours Museum Reserve Eden Valley Riesling 2004
96 points, $27.95, Screwcap, 12.5% alc
The grapes come from the oldest vines on the vineyard, planted in contoured rows in 1962. Bright straw-green; intense lime and apple aromas showing the first signs of developing some toasty notes, the palate brilliantly fresh, still with a hint of CO 2; citrus, spice and minerally acidity run through the lingering finish.
From Eden Valley
Drink to 2019 with cold smoked salmon
www.pewseyvale.com

Larry Cherubino Porongurup Riesling 2009
97 points, $35, Screwcap, 12.2% alc
The analysis of this wine is extraordinary: a pH of 2.98 and 9 gm/l of acidity, and bone-dry. An exercise in restraint on the bouquet, which hides the quite remarkable intensity and drive of the palate, with lime and lemon juice on the mid-palate framed by lingering minerally acidity. Gold-plated 20-year development potential.
From Western Australia
Drink to 2030 with vegetable terrine
www.larrycherubino.com

Grosset Springvale Riesling 2009
96 points, $36, Screwcap, 12.5% alc
Jeffrey Grosset is known around the globe as a past master when it comes to Riesling. That this is the 29th vintage comes as no surprise. Fragrant lime, herb and spice aromas lead into an incisive and tightly focused palate, with delicious lime and green apple fruit coursing through to the finish.
From Clare Valley
Drink to 2020 with steamed mussels
www.grosset.com.au

patrickzhu

Semillon

this group neatly shows the two faces of semillon: Peppertree Alluvius and Thomas Braemore barely off the vine, the Tyrrell’s Stevens and Peter Lehman Margaret 4-5 years down the track, and starting to flower in a manner unique to semillon. Drink the older vintages, and cellar the ‘09s.


Tyrrell’s Single Vineyard Stevens Hunter Semillon 2005
97 points, $25, Screwcap, 11.4% alc
The grapes come from Neil Stevens’ Glenoak Vineyard, the vines planted between 1911 and 1965. Small wonder the wine has collected so many trophies and gold medals. Gloriously delineated, the finesse of the wine is extraordinary, as is its youth and length. Descriptors are, in fact, redundant; just accept its greatness.
From Lower Hunter Valley
Drink to 2030 with trout mousse
www.tyrrells.com.au

Thomas Braemore Individual Vineyard Hunter Valley Semillon 2009
95 points, $27, Screwcap, 11.5% alc
From the Braemore Vineyard on the sandy alluvial flats, so suited to semillon. The bouquet is multi-faceted, with more fruit than normal in a young semillon; the palate verged on the astonishing when six months old, with a panoply of citrus fruit, and the supple mouthfeel which normally doesn’t develop until semillon is five years old.
From Lower Hunter Valley
Drink to 2018 with crab cakes
www.thomaswines.com.au

Pepper Tree Alluvius Reserve Semillon 2009
96 points, $30, Screwcap, 10.5% alc
This wine, like the Thomas Braemore, comes from the Braemore Vineyard planted in the late 1960s by Ken Bray. Bright straw-green, it has a classic bouquet in the main stream of high quality, young semillon. The palate has tremendous thrust, drive and exceptional length, minerally acidity running alongside mouth-tingling, lemony fruit.
From Lower Hunter Valley
Drink to 2020 with lemon-marinated fish
www.peppertreewines.com.au

Peter Lehmann Margaret Barossa Semillon 2004
96 points, $30, Screwcap, 11.4% alc
This wine is made using identical techniques to those employed in the Hunter Valley. The bouquet is layered with straw, lemon, mineral and a touch of marzipan; fresh and lively, the texture is refreshing, and the drive on the back-palate long, toasty and fresh, all rolled into one complete package.
From Barossa Valley
Drink to 2016 with grilled eggplant
www.peterlehmannwines.com

patrickzhu

Sauvignon Blanc and blends

Geoff Weaver’s sauvignon from the Lenswood subregion of the Adelaide Hills stood in the way of a clean sweep by Western Australia, with the Margaret River predictably to the fore. The Cullen Mangan Sauvignon Blanc Semillon is a prime example of vinous needlepoint embroidery.


Geoff Weaver Lenswood Sauvignon Blanc 2009
96 points, $24, Screwcap, 13.5% alc
Estate-grown, handpicked and bunch-selected, the fastidious winemaking of Geoff Weaver puts the wine on another plane from the vast majority of ’09 sauvignon blancs from the eastern states; the gooseberry and kiwifruit flavours are intense and penetrating, the palate very long and the dry, almost savoury, aftertaste lingers long.
From Adelaide Hills
Drink 2014 with bouillabaisse
www.geoffweaver.com.au

Larry Cherubino Pemberton Sauvignon Blanc 2009
96 points, $35, Screwcap, 12.1% alc
Another remarkable wine from Larry Cherubino, fermented in 100% new French oak, but removed and bottled within two months of vintage. Pale green-straw; citrus and herb, rather than tropical, aromas precede a blaze of flavour on the highly charged, intense, and long palate. The barrel fermentation is not the least obvious.
From Western Australia
Drink to 2013 with grilled scampi
www.larrycherubino.com

Vasse Felix Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009
95 points, $25, Screwcap, 12.5% alc
Vasse Felix was the first winery to be established in Margaret River (in 1963) and is now owned by the Holmes a Court family. Bright light green-straw; a beautifully focused and balanced blend, with tropical fruit offset by intense citrus acidity; the small proportion of barrel ferment in French oak is almost invisible.
From Margaret River
Drink to 2012 with Margaret River abalone
www.vassefelix.com.au

Cullen Mangan Vineyard Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008
96 points, $35, Screwcap, 11.5% alc
A 70/30 blend of Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon with a magical combination of delicacy on the bouquet, and explosive intensity on the racing palate; 28% barrel ferment has been absorbed by the fruit. What gives this wine its special quality is the thrust and drive of the citrussy acidity spearing through the finish and aftertaste.
From Margaret River
Drink to 2015 with tempura oysters
www.cullenwines.com.au

patrickzhu

Chardonnay

few would dispute that the Margaret River, Adelaide Hills and Yarra Valley are the three most exciting regions for high quality chardonnay. These are wonderful wines; in each case, the winemaker’s philosophy is to highlight the terroir yet invest the wine with complex flavour, texture and structure. This difficult balancing act can only be achieved with grapes of the highest quality.


Sticks No. 29 Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2006
96 points, $30, Screwcap, 13.5% alc
From an estate-grown, single block planted in 1983, given Rolls Royce treatment in the winery. Bright yellow-green; a seriously good wine, with delicious grapefruit and nectarine at its heart, and all the length one expects from the best Yarra Valley chardonnays; the oak is at once important and unimportant, the finish taut and fresh.
From Yarra Valley
Drink to 2016 with grilled spatchcock
www.sticks.com.au

Shaw & Smith M3 Vineyard Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2008
96 points, $36, Screwcap, 13.5% alc
The estate-grown grapes are whole-bunch pressed, the wine wild fermented. Shaw & Smith have worked tirelessly to hone the style to perfection, its path through the mouth laser-guided in its precision, unbundling all the components of fruit and oak pointless except to say the finish is breathtakingly long and clear.
From Adelaide Hills
Drink to 2018 with steamed mussels
www.shawandsmith.com

Xanadu Reserve Margaret River Chardonnay 2008
97 points, $70, Screwcap, 14% alc
The wine is made from the oldest vines on the estate, planted in the 1970s. Its floral, fragrant citrus blossom aromas are intense, a harbinger of the almost surreal purity of the wine in the mouth. Where the 100% barrel ferment and the alcohol went I have no idea, but this wine has a near-indefinite life.
From Margaret River
Drink to 2028 with lobster
www.xanaduwines.com

Cullen Kevin John Margaret River Chardonnay 2007
97 points, $70, Screwcap, 13.5% alc
In accordance with biodynamic practice, the grapes were handpicked around a full moon on fruit days. It is one of the best Cullen chardonnays for a long time; there is exceptional focus and intensity to the palate with its mix of nectarine, white peach and grapefruit; 100% wild yeast barrel ferment has been subsumed by the fruit.
From Margaret River
Drink to 2017 with cold smoked salmon
www.cullenwines.com.au

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Margaret River Chardonnay 2006
97 points, $96, Screwcap, 14.5% alc
From one of the coolest growing seasons in Margaret River. A complex array of nectarine, grapefruit and spice, particularly cinnamon, is offered on the bouquet; the palate exhibits understated power, with grilled nuts supporting the very generous, yet refined, level of stone fruit and oak; the finish is staggeringly long, fine and complex.
From Margaret River
Drink to 2021 with milk fed veal
www.leeuwinestate.com.au

patrickzhu

Other whites

quite simply, the best marsanne in the country, and the best viognier. The decision by Tahbilk to separately bottle the wine from the block planted in 1927 can only be applauded, the amount of effort Yalumba has put into creating The Virgilius likewise.


Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne 2000
96 points, $45.50, Cork, 11% alc
Produced from a single block of vines planted in 1927, making them some of the oldest in the world; only 360 cases produced. Still pale straw-green, it is a wine of exceptional vibrancy, as much about citrus as the more common honeysuckle; fantastic drive through to the lingering finish.
From Nagambie Lakes
Drink to 2020 with salmon risotto
www.tahbilk.com.au

Yalumba The Virgilius Eden Valley Viognier 2008
96 points, $49.95, Screwcap, 13.5% alc
The Virgilius outguns every other viognier in Australia. The handpicked grapes are whole-bunch pressed direct to barrel (pre-used) and lees-stirred for 11 months. The most remarkable feature is its depth of white peach and apricot flavour, achieved without the phenolics which can so easily destroy the finish of this variety.
From Barossa Valley
Drink to 2011 with free range chicken
www.yalumba.com

patrickzhu

Over $20 Whites near misses:	Rating	Price
2009 Ferngrove Cossack Frankland River Riesling	95	$22.99
2009 Knappstein 8:8:18 Riesling	96	$22.95
2009 McLeish Hunter Valley Semillon	96	$23.00
2008 Rosily Margaret River Chardonnay	95	$23.00
2009 Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Riesling	95	$30.00
2009 Seppelt Drumborg Vineyard Riesling	96	$31.99
2009 Grosset Semillon Sauvignon Blanc	95	$32.00
2008 Hay Shed Hill Block 6 Margaret River Chardonnay	96	$35.00
2006 Barwang 842 Tumbarumba Chardonnay	96	$35.00
2007 Voyager Margaret River Chardonnay	96	$42.00
2007 Petaluma Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay	96	$45.00
2003 Crawford River Reserve Riesling	95	$60.00

patrickzhu

原帖由 老陶 于 2009-12-7 20:09 发表
这个太商业化了，要照顾到每个酒商。我不是很感冒。

呵呵，没错。
他原来就是酿酒师和酒商，但是很来不干“制造酒”专做“喝酒说酒”了，想不到是如此的成功，aussie们很吃他这一套的。
其实很难找到一个真正独立的评酒师的，评酒师就是同时为消费者和酒庄服务的。

它历年名单上的under$20我经常买，特别是红酒的部分的确很好。

他还有一个关于Hunter Valley的名单，去Hunter Valley的时候可以带着，呵呵。

[ 本帖最后由 patrickzhu 于 2009-12-7 21:02 编辑 ]

frankielynna

最好配个图，否则光有名字bottle shop里面找不到阿。

wdmznzd

是啊，如果有酒标就好了

frankielynna

去老板家吃圣诞晚餐，买了这个，也不知道味道如何。哈哈！
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

kuku

好详细啊~~~~有了这个以后买酒就清楚多了啊~

Harvey_021

mark